48 hours in big bend, TX
Spring break, 2020. Just before the whole world lost its mind, we decided to make the trip to Big Bend National Park. Now, y'all haven't learned this about me yet, but I am the absolute worst when it comes to planning things...ahead of time. So much so, it would drive some A personalities absolutely bonkers. Hear me out though, when I do plan, something falls through for one reason or another. Also, Sagittarius. I have issues with commitment. However, if you want to camp at Chisos Basin...you generally need to plan out at least 6-8 months in advance to get the spot and time you want.
The best resource (beyond searching blogs like this one on the internet) to really get a good handle on your trip is if you give the park a call, find all the park information here . You can request a newspaper they create that has tons of information in it. I didn't know about the paper until we got there and it was handed to me as we entered the park. I used a lot of the information in it and would say it's worth calling for. In the newspaper you'll find, locations of the different campgrounds (on a map, which is amazing for me), what trails are around the campsite, and some ideas of what you could fit into your time at Big Bend. We went without a reservation, crossed our fingers, and hoped for the best. When conducting my research, quite a few bloggers said that you MAYBE could get a campsite, if you get there super early...so there was our plan. And with COVID, I was hoping that people bailed. Super solid, I know. Other campers bailing because of COVID was not the case, but we did end up snagging a site for the night we needed!
At the campsites you'll find a grill, a large metal storage unit to keep food safe from bears and mountain lions, etc., some have covered picnic tables (where we were actually were able to hang a hammock). Public restrooms were provided and running water to wash dishes. However...no showers. Now, prior to Big Bend, we had already spent a few days at other parks and dry camping. Also, with no showers. Our last campsite, in Terlingua, did have showers...but it was pay-per-minute and I thought, f- that. I was so sure there were going to be showers at Big Bend I said to myself, what's one more night? So hey, bring an RV or a portable shower if you want to get cleaned up!
After settling in, the first hike we ventured on was "The Window" a 4.4-mile hike where the average person would take about 3-4 hours to hike. The average person. Then there's us, hiking with a 3-year-old, 4-year-old, and two 10-year-olds. Without fail, the 3 & 4-year-olds ALWAYS fall asleep on the way back from our long hikes leaving Mom and Dad to carry the dead weight. We really like to challenge ourselves. After what felt like forever, we FINALLY arrived back at our campsite, minus a shoe. During Adelines’ deep sleep and our labored breathing, the shoe slipped off her foot and fell upon deaf ears. Luckily, we had another pair. There's another pro tip for you, bring extra shoes for the littles. You just never know.
After taking some time to recover, I referenced the map to see if there was anything else we could hit up really quickly. My eyes fell upon "Balanced Rock". It didn't look far, the paper said it was easy... (oh, and no internet service btw, although, there were a bunch of cabins and a welcome center that did have WiFi if you absolutely needed it).
We loaded up and headed out. Now, when I said it was close...that wasn't taking into account the bumpy dirt road that led us to the rock. That added a good chunk of time to the journey and, as happens most times - the sun sank faster than I anticipated. Meaning, we hustled. Toward the end, it got to a point where there was no way the girls were going to make the ascent to the top. The boys and I ditched Dion and the girls to rush for the sight. Just 15 minutes sooner and we would've witnessed an amazing sunset. The alternative we got wasn't bad, and if you want a short hike, this is it.
There were some boon-docking primitive camping sites out that way but no bathrooms. Of course, we all had to pee as we arrived back at the van. On that note, keeping a supply of toilet paper and flushable wipes never let us down in our travels.
The appeal of Chisos Campground is the towering mountains wrapping themselves around you. It provides for an amazing view all day and a cooler climate during the summer. If you want it, book ahead or pray you can sneak in early in the morning.
When we camp out of the van, the boys usually take the tent while we move everything to the front of the van, fold all the seats down and blow up a queen-size air mattress. Plus side of having a minivan with a DVD player, we get to watch a movie before bed if we like. Now, I'm not going to sit here and say it's the most comfortable thing in the world. The van has a slight slant to the floor. But when you want to leave last minute, a camp for pennies, and have just a little more comfortable environment than a tent, the van does the job. The sunrises we've seen....gorgeous!
The next morning, whipped up some breakfast, did the pits and privates freshening up (again solid win with the flushable wipes) and since we needed to clear out by 11 am, we decided to follow the Big Bend papers recommendation and take the "Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive". It takes you down past the Cottonwood campground and through a completely different landscape than that you see in Chisos. Arriving at the end of your drive you have the Rio Grande for your reward.
If you're up for a hike, as we were, there is the Santa Elena Canyon trail. It was definitely my favorite out of all our hikes at Big Bend. The hike was fairly short, windy, hugging the Rio Grande as we wound around the canyon wall. By that time of the day, the heat had really set in. As we came down into the valley everything immediately cooled down. Entering another terrain completely. Lush, green, and thick with a cool-ish humidity - if you can imagine that. It was a welcome reprieve from the heat that started our hike. The Santa Elena Canyon trail was the perfect way to end our time there.
Heading in or out, there is a gas station in the middle of the park, we took a stop there because we weren't going to take any chances with our gas situation. The park is so huge, running out of gas is a real possibility. Fueled up, we headed toward Marathon, TX. After passing through, I wish we would've had some more time to visit. It was so cute, with great pizza, and has the smallest Target in Texas. I would say it could be a very intimate couple getaway. At that point in our journey though, we needed a shower, a cozy bed, and some decent shut-eye without getting kicked in the face by little feet. You could visit Big Bend a few times and still not see everything.
