Big Bend National Park: Hot Springs, Birria Tacos, and Starry Nights
There’s something about Big Bend National Park that’s both wild and soothing at the same time. My friend and I loaded up our camper, hitched it to my brother's trusty Dodge Ram, and set off for a long birthday weekend that promised a blend of adventure, dark skies, and seriously good food. Here’s how it all went down.
Big Bend National Park | Photo by Mendy Dietert
Day 1: Sunset at Sotol Overlook
We rolled into Big Bend just in time to catch the sunset at Sotol Overlook, a breathtaking vantage point that made us feel like we had front-row seats to nature’s best show. Watching the fiery colors fade into the desert horizon was the perfect way to start the trip. It’s the best view for sunset in the entire park, and we had the place all to ourselves! After the show, we headed to Cottonwood Campground to finish setting up for the night.
Sotol Overlook in Big Bend National Park
Sotol Overlook in Big Bend National Park | Photo by Mendy Dietert
There are three campgrounds in the park: Rio Grande, Cottonwood, and Chisos. Depending on your plans, your choice of campground can make a big difference. If you have an RV longer than 20 feet, Chisos is off-limits. Only Rio Grande has hookups and a dump station, but Cottonwood does have a water fill station—a detail we forgot to take advantage of before we unhooked for our stay, but managed fine without. Cottonwood is also just 17 minutes from Santa Elena Canyon, which we had planned to paddle. Unfortunately, the rainy season had been sparse, leaving the canyon dry. Still, the cloudy skies teased us with a glimpse of stars that night.
Day 2: Hot Springs and a Donkey Ride to Boquillas, Mexico
Day two began with a relaxing dip in the park’s famous hot springs. To our surprise, we only had to share the springs with two other people for most of our soak. The warm waters (105 degrees) and the sound of the nearby Rio Grande created an almost meditative experience—a welcome reprieve after our eight-hour drive from Austin. Afterward, we stopped at the Rio Grande Village Visitor Center to change and prepare for the day’s highlight: lunch in Mexico.
Photo by Mendy Dietert
Hot Springs Big Bend National Park | Photo by Mendy Dietert
Crossing the Border to Boquillas
Crossing into Boquillas, Mexico, felt like stepping into a charming, sun-soaked postcard. At the border crossing, we were given a rundown of what to expect and made sure our passports were in order. You can wade across the Rio Grande if the water is low, but we opted for the $5 ferry, which included our return trip. From there, you can walk, ride a horse, or take a donkey to town. Naturally, we went with the donkey ($10 round trip)—because why not?
Boquillas Restaurant Boquillas Mexico | Photo by Mendy Dietert
Once we arrived, we headed to customs, paid a $4 maintenance fee, and signed in. Boquillas is small but delightful, with two restaurants and a bar. We chose Boquillas Restaurant and ordered the birria tacos ($8), which were hands-down the best I’ve ever had. Pro tip: skip the pricier Jose’s if you’re on a budget. After tacos and a quick tequila stop at the bar, we grabbed some souvenirs and made our way back to the ferry. By 4 PM, we were back at Cottonwood, grilling steak under the cloudy sky.
Day 3: Rainy Days, Terlingua Charm, and Marathon Nights
On day three, we woke up early and drove nearly an hour to the Lost Mine Trailhead, excited for one of the park’s most scenic hikes. A quick stop at the visitor center revealed a gloomy forecast, and with rain in the mountains, we knew the view wouldn’t clear. We made the tough call to skip the hike and instead packed up camp and headed to Terlingua for lunch.
Starlight Theatre Terlingua
Terlingua Cemetary
Venga, Terlingua
Terlingua Cemetary
Terlingua Trading Company
Lunch and Exploring Terlingua
Terlingua, with its quirky desert charm, was a fitting farewell to Big Bend. We ate at Venga, a newer spot since the Starlight didn’t open until 5 PM. After exploring the cemetery and Terlingua Trading Company, we drove to Marathon to set up for the night. I’d mapped out potential free camping spots in Marathon beforehand, remembering it as a surprising place to get away. We parked right across from Main Street, perfectly situated for exploring the area.
Fiesta De Noche Buena in Marathon
As luck would have it, that night was Fiesta De Noche Buena, complete with a small parade, fires, food, and late-night shopping. We stopped by the Historic Gage Hotel for a peek and a drink at the White Buffalo Bar before checking out a new distillery nearby. To our delight, Desert Ghost Distillery was just five days into business! The whiskey was fantastic, and the warm conversation made for a perfect end to our trip.
Main Street Marathon Texas | Our camp for the night
Practical Tips for Visiting Big Bend National Park
Best Time to Visit: Late fall to early spring for cooler temperatures.
Campgrounds: Choose Cottonwood for quiet nights and proximity to Santa Elena Canyon.
Packing Tips: Don’t forget water, sturdy hiking boots, and layers for varying temperatures.
Crossing to Boquillas: Bring your passport and cash for small fees and tips.
Park Pass: If you plan on going to 3 or more parks this year, consider an America The Beautiful Pass. For $80 you have access to all National Parks plus more!
My list of Essentials for National Park Trips
Final Thoughts
While the weather wasn’t perfect, the journey was a mix of unforgettable moments, delicious food, and a reminder that sometimes the best adventures don’t need clear skies.
Big Bend, you were cloudy, but you still stole the show. We’ll be back for the stars—and maybe another round of those tacos.
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